Hong Kong Journal: Towering, Teeming Hong Kong — Where the Buffalo Roam


A cow on a Hong Kong avenue last 7 days. As numerous as 1,000-odd feral bovines, as nicely as monkeys, pythons and other animals, dwell in the city. Credit Lam Yik Fei for The New York Instances

HONG KONG â?? A water buffalo grazes in a lush open discipline, an egret standing sentinel on its back. A herd of wild cattle bathes in the sunshine together the facet of a winding highway.

Two idyllic rural scenes, observed almost every single day.

In Hong Kong.

This is a location recognized for its city superlatives. There are a lot more skyscrapers here than anyplace on the world. Most residents stay in small flats, a lot of stacked atop sprawling shopping malls, which in switch are piled on prime of subway stations. With an location about the size of Luxembourg, Hong Kong is constantly reclaiming land from the sea, creating a lot more space for its 7.2 million folks.

But there is another aspect to this previous British colony. A wild aspect. Most of Hong Kong is not an city jungle, but relatively a actual one particular, teeming with monkeys, Burmese pythons, barking deer, wild boars and 14 kinds of venomous snakes (8 of which, such as the king cobra, are deadly to humans). About a few-quarters of the land right here is countryside, primarily mountainous terrain and much of it secured as parkland.

Rice paddies after dotted the lowland areas, where for generations cattle and water buffalo plowed the swampy land. By the nineteen seventies, when Hong Kongâ??s economic growth and soaring land prices made farming less attractive and uneconomical, most of the function animals had been abandoned.

They seem to have carried out just wonderful.

As numerous as 1,000-odd feral bovines â?? largely cattle but also h2o buffaloes â?? remain. While a lot of make their houses deep inside of the region parks, other folks live near folks, grazing at bus stops, from time to time raiding gardens and blocking targeted traffic.

This thirty day period, an immense, horned water buffalo stunned pupils by working together with them in a cross-region race. For many inhabitants venturing outside the house the cityâ??s urban main, cattle are the initial wild animals they come across.

Animal-legal rights advocates say the cattle have served deliver a sea alter in attitudes toward wildlife in current a long time, the two amid the populace and the government. A decade in the past, the animalsâ?? potential looked uncertain as developers, especially on Lantau Island, home to the cityâ??s airport and Disneyland, pushed the govt to get rid of them to clear land for new houses.

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Many cattle, which are not a protected species, had been slaughtered, and the herds on the island had been on the verge of being removed, stated Ho Loy, who leads the Lantau Buffalo Affiliation.

â??It was just like a war,â? mentioned Ms. Ho, whose team seeks to maintain the islandâ??s cattle and buffalo.

Now, the Hong Kong federal government company in charge of managing wildlife is working to maintain the cattle, checking their overall health, tagging them, monitoring some with GPS collars, and performing selective sterilizations to maintain their quantities in verify. Considering that the company, the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Division, established up its cattle administration team in 2011, far more than three hundred animals have been sterilized, it mentioned in an emailed response to inquiries.

Volunteer groups like Ms. Hoâ??s, as nicely as equivalent organizations in other components of Hong Kong, operate closely with the govt and the public to shield the animals and manage problems.

The beastsâ?? greater profile has given rise to a new breed of citizens: urban cowgirls.

Karina Oâ??Carroll, 32, is one particular of them. As a founder of Sai Kung Buffalo Observe, she will take phone calls from the general public at all hours, responding to reports of cattle blocking roadways, and protests from people irritated by piles of steaming cow patties. All in an work to sustain bovine-human harmony.


Cattle in the Sai Kung district of Hong Kong last week. A lot of continue to be deep in the city’s nation parks, but other people stay close to people. Credit Lam Yik Fei for The New York Occasions

â??We have long gone to pick up poo to appease folks,â? she said, outlining to them that â??itâ??s the best point for your gardens and your crops.â?

Ms. Oâ??Carroll does not have a lasso. She has identified that the ideal way to shoo cattle off the highway is to jingle some car keys â?? they will move absent from the sound. Failing that, splash them with drinking water. And although she does not have a 6-shooter, she does on situation fireplace antimaggot treatment at their hindquarters.

â??They donâ??t like the audio of sprays,â? she says. â??Youâ??ve obtained one shot, and then theyâ??re absent.â?

Ms. Ho is a lot more of a cow whisperer, conversing to the animals in a calming voice to make them shift off the roadway, out of harmâ??s way.

The two females are helped by scores of volunteers, as fascination in the cattle grows. The government now sees the animals as considerably less of a nuisance and much more of a tourist attraction.

â??The division acknowledges that the cattle and buffalo are portion of the heritage of rural Hong Kong and that it provides pleasure to guests and locals alike to see these animals in a all-natural setting,â? the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Office suggests on its site.

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Cows are significantly and absent the most frequent wild animal observed in Hong Kong, but encounters with other creatures also take area as the town expands and individuals enterprise into the wilderness.

In May, a wild boar entered a purchasing shopping mall on Hong Kong Island, rampaging by way of a childrenâ??s keep prior to currently being tranquilized and returned to the wild. The following month, a 12-foot python experienced to be eliminated from a village grave internet site exactly where it had taken home. People hiking in the wilderness have been identified to shed a family members canine to a pythonâ??s stranglehold.

Last thirty day period, more than a dozen macaque monkeys took over a university playground, forcing students to shift inside while animal control officials tried out to get rid of the primates. Eventually 1, lured by a banana, was caught in a cage, prompting the other folks to retreat, neighborhood news media noted.

Hong Kongâ??s flourishing wild fauna stands in sharp contrast to the rest of China. From 1970 to 2010, the populace of reptiles and amphibians fell ninety seven p.c in China, even though the mammal populations â?? humans excepted â?? fell 50 % throughout the very same period, in accordance to a review released this thirty day period by the Globe Broad Fund for Mother nature.

Cattle here are bucking that development. Their figures on Lantau Island have more than tripled in current many years, Ms. Ho estimates.

Feral cattle, which do not meet up with the governmentâ??s definition of wild animals, do not appreciate federal government security. In Hong Kong, killing or possessing a wild Burmese python, fox, squirrel, monkey or any hen topics violators to a wonderful of as a lot as $ 12,900 and up to a year in jail.

But these times, number of individuals established out to damage the animals, and however Ms. Oâ??Carroll and her colleagues worry that cattle rustlers from mainland China could spirit complete herds absent on boats in the lifeless of night, so considerably that does not look to have happened.

Rather, a lot more people seem to take pleasure in just obtaining them all around as a dwelling reminder of Hong Kongâ??s bucolic past.

â??Theyâ??re element of our community,â? Ms. Oâ??Carroll explained. â??They have to continue to be. They ended up below before a good deal of us.â?


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